October Offer: Two Free Patterns!

Aren’t these mitts adorable? It gets better… They are warm and squishy and a delight to wear, too! Guess what.

The crochet pattern for these mitts is free for the month of October! But it gets better… You can have another pattern from my library for free for the month of October too! Any pattern!

Here’s how to get them. It’s easy!

1. Download the V-Stitch Mitts pattern here and make yourself a pair.

2. Post a picture of your own V-Stitch Mitts on Instagram. In your post, tag me, @katie_clark_crochet and @jemsluxefibers who dyed the fabulous mini bulkies used in this pattern.

3. Like @katie_clark_crochet and @jemsluxefibers on Instagram.

When you’ve done all three, message me and I’ll send you any one of the patterns listed on my website for free!

Lush Cowl + Monster Minis

An older pattern gets an upgrade thanks to new Monster Minis from Jems Luxe Fibers!

Jems Luxe Fibers has introduced new bulky mini sets called Monster Minis and I’m in love! These little wonders are a fun way to play with color. I’m one of the lucky first designers to get their hands on some to see how they work up. The first thing I did was reinvent my classic Lush Cowl to feature Jems’s coordinating sets. This version uses a full skein of Jems Luxe Fibers Bulky in Graphite and the Hebe Collection Monster Minis. Don’t you love the color combination?

The warm and squishy cowl features a unique crochet cable technique. It works up quickly with enough plush layers to sit high over your nose, and is soft enough to scrunch around your neck. So grab the pattern and your Monster Minis from Jems Luxe Fibers. They are the only ones who carry bulky minis!

Lush Cowl $5

Terms and Conditions

Knitting a Top Down Sweater: Dividing for Sleeves

When you are knitting a top down sweater like a yoke or raglan pattern, after you complete the shoulders and top of bust, you will separate the sleeve stitches from the body stitches. The sleeve stitches will be held unworked as you finish the body down to the waist.

Joining the front and back of body creating a sleeve

In the Fireworks pattern by Olive Knits, at the beginning of the round you will work a few extra stitches before you separate the body and sleeves. This is because your BOR (beginning of round) is at the top of the shoulder and you must first work to the stitches that will be under the arm. Where you place your first marker is going to be the new BOR. Then you will continue by working a certain number of stitches for the front, slipping the appropriate number of stitches for one arm PURLWISE onto waste yarn, adding a few stitches under the arm, working a certain number of stitches for the back (this brings the front and back together), slipping stitches purlwise for the other arm, adding stitches for under the other arm, and joining the back to the front.

For other top down patterns, the process is the same, but the position of the BOR will change the process a little. A well written pattern will give exact numbers of stitches to work and slip and in what order.

Most patterns suggest holding sleeve stitches on waste yarn. But if you have extra cables you can use those instead. It is important that you use a generous length of waste yarn or a long cable so it will be easy for you to try on your sweater. That’s one of the big advantages of making a top down sweater!

To slip stitches to waste yarn, you will need a tapestry needle and a generous length of waste yarn. (See images below) I recommend using a contrasting yarn in a lighter weight than your work. Thread your waste yarn on your tapestry needle, but don’t knot it. Slip stitches PURLWISE onto the tapestry needle the same way you would slip them from the left to the right needle. Continue working your stitches down your waste yarn, but don’t let them fall off the other end! When you have the appropriate number of stitches slipped for one sleeve, tie the ends of your waste yarn together so you don’t drop the stitches. Be sure to leave plenty of room for you to try on your sweater.

If you are using cable needles, use any needle size smaller than what you are knitting with. This keeps from stretching your stitches and changing the gauge. Slip stitches PURLWISE from the left needle to the new cable being careful to not let them slip off the other end. Secure your needles together so stitches won’t fall off as you are working the body. Be sure to use a cable long enough to allow you to try on your sweater!

My favorite way to hold sleeve stitches is on an interchangeable cable so the needles don’t get in the way. For this technique, you will need:

  • an extra cable long enough to allow you to try on your sweater
  • a needle any size smaller than what you are knitting with
  • something to secure your cable, like a connection piece or stoppers

Attach the needle to one end of the cable and a connection piece or a stopper to the other end. Slip your stitches PURLWISE as described. Then replace the needle with the other end of the connection piece or the other stopper.

After your sleeves are separated from the body, you are ready to work the rest of the body! You will come back to the sleeves after the body is complete.

Find more details on the Fireworks KAL here.

Slipping stitches purlwise onto waste yarn
Backward loop cast on under the arm
Add marker between 2 cast on stitches to mark the center under the arm
Materials for holding stitches on an interchangeable needle cable
Slipping stitches onto a cable

Get Your Swatch On!

My beautiful yarn came in from Jems Luxe Fibers so I’m swatching for the Fireworks 4 Day KAL today! Look below for a peek at the colorway I ordered. If you are just joining us, get all the Fireworks KAL details here.

If this is your first time swatching, here are a few of tips.

  • Use your size 6 needles because you want to use the needles you’re going to use for the body of the sweater.
  • Cast on more than 20 stitches. The edges tend to warp a little bit, so you won’t get an accurate measurement if you count the stitches on the edge.
  • Your swatch should be a little more than 4″ x 4″ of stockinette stitch (k on one side, p on the other). There’s no “right” way to do it other than that. But if you like specific directions, I’ll post row by row directions below.
  • Notice the gauge says the swatch should be “blocked.” For the most accurate gauge, wash your block the same way you’ll wash your finished piece. When you wash different fibers, they may grow or shrink, so you’ll definitely want to take that into account for your sweater.

Let me know if you have any other questions! Happy swatching!

Swatch pattern

Cast on 28 sts.

Row 1: (K1, P1) across.

Row 2: (P1, K1) across.

Rpt rows 1 & 2.

Row 4: (K1, P1) twice, K 20, (K1, P1) twice.

Row 5: (P1, K1) twice, P 20, (P1, K1) twice.

Rpt rows 4 & 5 thirteen more times.

Rpt rows 1 & 2 twice. Bind off.

Luxe DK in colorway Euclase by Jems Luxe Fibers

Agape Love Shawl Crochet Version and 9 Tips for working with Mohair

Happy Valentine’s Day! Treat your Valentine or yourself to this soft, luxurious scarf designed by Judy Busby at Jems Luxe Fibers and translated to crochet by me, Katie Clark.

Agape Love is an unconditional love that transcends and persists regardless of the circumstance.  Agape is the Greek term for Love – the highest expression of love – a pure and  selfless thing.

This shawl is a fun and quick crochet using minis and mohair.  Every row begins with decreases that shapes this colorful shawl.  Have fun with your colors and let it reflect the love you’ve experienced, how it has shaped and reshaped you.  God’s love for you and me is passionate, pure and beyond anything we’ve ever experienced, accepting us as we are.  He reminds us of our worth and beauty as His daughters.  He loves us with unconditional Agape Love.  God is Love!

Judy Busby, Jems Luxe Fibers

If you’ve never used mohair, you’ll find it takes some patience to work with. So before we get into the pattern, let me give you a few tips for working with mohair.

Tip #1

Use a larger hook or needle to retain loftiness. The wonderful thing about mohair is the silky halo of fiber that surrounds the core. Using a hook or needle that is too small will compact the fibers, negating the effect.

Tip #2

Work loosely. For the same reason as above, use a gentle hand. Or if you have a tendency to stitch tightly, go up another size or two.

Tip #3

Hold with another yarn to add softness, halo & warmth. The fibers aren’t just beautiful. They are very useful for insulating. Used alone, mohair is surprisingly warm. So adding it to another yarn will make your finished piece that much warmer.

Tip #4

Ask your LYS to wind your yarn. Especially if you’ve never used mohair before, because it is so clingy. You don’t want to be frustrated with your yarn before you even begin your project. If you must wind it yourself, try loosening fibers before winding by gently spreading the strands apart to keep them from matting together as you wind.

Tip #5

Do not work cake or ball from inside. I’m a work-the-ball-from-the-inside kind of girl. I do it even when it’s not recommended. Except for mohair. Ever. The fibers pull on each other and you end up with a big mess. Ask me how I know.

Tip #6

Use excellent lighting. This is always important, but especially when using mohair. The halo can make the core strand difficult to see. Good lighting can help and if you really can’t make out your stitches, try holding it up to the light.

Tip #7

Don’t worry so much about mistakes. The halo hides a lot. But if necessary, hold your work up to light to check.

Tip #8

Be patient when taking out stitches. It’s inevitable that you will have to take some out eventually. But try not to get frustrated. Don’t pull so hard that you rip the core, but don’t be afraid to tear fuzz to separate the strands.

Tip #8

Most of all, be patient! It’s is different than any other fiber. But the soft luxurious mohair is worth it!

Now on to the Agape Love Shawl Crochet Version!

Agape Love Shawl

Difficulty
Beginner

Finished Measurements
Approx. 90 inches by 6 inches

Materials
Agape Love Minis and Nimbus Set

or

1 skein Jems Luxe Fibers Nimbus in Ruby Red MC
1 mini skein Jems Luxe Fibers Luxe Sock in each of these colors
Aphrodite CC1
Rubellite CC2
Agape CC3
Ruby Red CC4
Apple of Discord CC5

US Size N (9mm) hook

Tapestry needle

Gauge
3 sc = 1 inch
Gauge not critical

Begin Shawl
Holding MC and CC1 together, ch 270 loosely.

Row 1: Working in back loop of ch, sk first ch, sc3tog, sc across to last 3 chs, sc3tog. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc3tog, sc across to last 3 sts, sc3tog. Turn.

Rows 3 & 4: Rpt row 2.

*Break CC1. Pick up CC2 and hold it together with MC.
Rpt row 2 five times (or as many times as desired if you have extra yarn).

Rpt from * for each mini skein. Finish off both strands. Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Terms and Conditions

Patriotism during Hard Times

During this hard time, I want to give some encouragement! Look to your neighbors, friends, and even your social media friends. Together, we are Americans. Whether you look to the future with optimism or hesitancy, remember God is sovereign and America is sustained by His blessing! ❤

Colossians 1:16

“For in him all things were created: things in heaven and on earth, visible and invisible, whether thrones or powers or rulers or authorities; all things have been created through him and for him.”

I wanted to give you this free pattern to support and encourage my fellow Americans. Just so you know, I felt it important to release is as soon as possible, so it hasn’t been tested. Please email me if you have comments or suggestions for this pattern. If you would like to support me to allow me to continue to write patterns, the Patriotic Beanie is also available for purchase as a PDF download.

Difficulty
Advanced Beginner

Finished Measurements
Head Circumference in inches
Baby (Toddler, Child): 14 (16, 18)
Adult S (L): 20 (22)

Materials
1 ball each Knit Picks Stroll (50g/231 yds)
in these colors:
Cobblestone Heather (Gray)
Sapphire Heather (Blue)
Strawberry (Red)
White (White)

10 or more White Star buttons (not recommended for baby or toddler hat)

US Size F (4mm)hook

Tapestry needle

Gauge
22 dc = 4 inches
14 rows = 4 inches

Notes

• For sizing, measure your head and choose the size that is the next size smaller than your measurement.

• Before beginning, I reccommend highlighting the instructions for the size you will be making.

• Ch 2 at beginning of rnd does not count as a stitch throughout.

Crown Shaping

Note: As you work the crown shaping, change to Blue as noted for each size.

Rnd 1: Using Gray and working in magic lp, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 10 sc. Join w sl st to first sc.
-10 sc

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Join.
-20 dc

Rnd 3: Ch 2, [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-30 dc

Rnd 4: Ch 2, [dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-40 dc

Rnd 5: Ch 2, [dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-50 dc

Rnd 6: Ch 2, [dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-60 dc

Rnd 7: Ch 2, [dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-70 dc

For Baby (Toddler) 14 (16), finish off Gray. Join Blue and work next 1(2) rnds in pattern using Blue. Then continue to next section.
-80 (90) dc

Rnd 8: Ch 2, [dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in

next st] around. Join.
-80 dc

For Child (18), finish off Gray. Join Blue and work next 2 rnds in pattern using Blue. Then continue to next section.
-100 dc

Rnd 9: Ch 2, [dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-90 dc

Rnd 10: Ch 2, [dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-100 dc

For Adult S (20), finish off Gray. Join Blue and work next rnd in pattern using Blue. Then continue to next section.
-110 dc

Rnd 11: Ch 2, [dc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-110 dc

For Adult L (22), finish off Gray. Join Blue and work next rnd in pattern using blue. Then continue to next section.
-120 dc

Rnd 12: Ch 2, [dc in next 10 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. Join.
-120 dc

Continue Blue Field

Continuing working in Blue, work even until you have a total of 3 (4, 4) 5 (6) rnds of Blue complete. Finish off Blue.

Red and White Stripes

Note: To change colors, complete last stitch in old color to the last yo. Instead of working yo in old color, draw up the last lp in new color. Do not finish off old color. Instead, run the strand up loosely to the next row.

Rnd 1: Using Red, ch 2, fpdc in first st, dc in next 4 sts, [fpdc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, changing to White at the end of last st.

Rnd 2: Using White, rpt rnd 1, changing to Red at the end of last st.

Rpt rnds 1 & 2 until you have 4 (6, 8) 8 (10) rnds of stripes. Rpt rnd 1 once more. Finish off Red and White.

Ribbing

Rnd 1: Using Gray, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, fpdc in first st, bpdc in next st, [fpdc, bpdc] around. Join.

Rpt rnd 2: 2 (2, 2) 3 (3) more times. Join.

Finish off.

Sew buttons in Blue Field as desired. Do not use buttons for Baby or Toddler hat. Instead, use White to embroider lazy daisy stars to Blue Field as illustrated below.

Weave in ends.

Abbreviations

beg = beginning
ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
lp(s) = loop(s)
rnd = round
rpt = repeat
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)